Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Wedding Vignettes: Excusez-moi?



Not yet ready. Not today. Kalé ao. Worker has gone for tea. Worker has gone to his gaon. Come in afternoon. Come in evening. My man not yet come. Wait khali five minutes. Wait half an hour. Wait one hour. Bandh tomorrow. Autos on strike. Yes, we are open, but no one there. Credit card machine broken. ATM does not work - no electricity. Sorry, no change. No hot drinks, only cold drinks. No cold drinks, only hot drinks. (I swear all this happened to us).

Not here, there. Not there, in the city. Not in city, in Satellite. Not in Satellite, in Law Garden. Not Law Garden, try Navrangpura. Not Navrangpura, NARANGPURA. Not Narangpura, try Shivranjani Char Rasta. Shyamal Char Rasta. Swastik Char Rasta. Bodakdev Char Rasta.

Everything is Char Rasta. Char Rasta ni agal. Ni pachal. Ni dabi baju. Ni jamni baju. Everything is behind, in front of, across from, next to or on top of. We ran from char rasta to char rasta. From place to place. From shop to shop. When I took out my proudly-printed-from-Google map, they laughed and advised me to put it away and take heed of the in-front-of, behind-and-next to directions, they would serve me better.

It didn’t help that Bachubhai, our aging family driver of thirty years, could not remember how to get to the same shop we had visited every day for the past three days. My fingernails grew by the time he reversed. We could get in and out of the car whiIe he was still pulling into a parking spot. I can walk faster on one leg, said my daughter. Once when we were short of time, I suggested that we make a quick dash to the tailor. She laughed. It’s a whole kilometer away, Mom. Let’s do it when we have a couple of hours to spare. Amazing how the sarcasm gene, so light and subtle in the mother’s body, once inherited by the progeny, can generate barbs sharper than a two-edged sword.

Saturday, December 10, 2011

Wedding Vignettes: The India Trip



Part and parcel of preparing for a wedding is going to India to wedding-shop. Not necessary if you have sons and you can just order a sherwani on-line (lucky swines). But mandatory if you have a bridezilla ... er, I mean daughter, who has to go there personally to ensure that every sequin is in the right place on her lengha. One blog - although I have enough material to write a book - will be devoted to buying the panetar.
So off we went to India. 

We stopped in Turkey first, where we ate enough eggplant to not touch bharta for the rest of our lives. Istanbul a beautiful city and we fell in love with the friendly people. The friendly men fell in love with my beautiful daughter and I was offered a hundred camels for her. Had they offered a hundred Lindt ... just kidding. (Although by the end of the trip, I would’ve sold her for a bowl of khitchdee).





Second stop Bombay, where the astronomical prices sent us screaming in terror, wallet clutched to our chests, to Ahmedabad. Unlike Istanbul this is not a beautiful city, but again we fell in love with the people. I may have been born and brought up in Bombay, but each time I come to this city, I have the feeling of coming home.
Every experience we had, every shop we went to, every person we met is etched indelibly in our minds and hearts. When we wear our sarees, when we slip on our bangles, when we use the rubber stamps, when the priest burns the camphor, and when we hang up the toran, we will remember them not only for their friendly service, but also for their smiles.

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Wedding Vignettes





My daughter is getting married.

While my husband wallows in depression, I roll up my sleeves and crank-start the brain. Venue. Guest list. Invitations. Hotels. Caterer. Pandit. Panetar. Jewelry. Gifts. Tastings. Florist. Photographer ... Now I need the Prozac. And give me a Xanax while you are at it, because I am starting to panic as well.

At least she found her own soulmate. She spared us the agony of ‘Kai chokro-bokro che ke?’ and blessed us with the ecstacy of the best damaad we couldn’t have even conjured up in our imagination.

So for the next six months I will blog the excitement (as well the trials and tribulations) of getting this production on the road. And a production it is and will be, if it is anything like your typical, over-the-top Indian wedding. The mehndi. The pithi. The pooja. The garba. The sangeet. The wedding. The reception.

Aaarghhh! How about “the elopement”?

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Album 4: I wish. I wonder. I hope.



I wish my dad were still alive.



I wonder if he knew how much I loved him.



I hope to be more like him.


Monday, August 1, 2011

Album 3: A Love Affair



It didn’t happen the first time. It was the second time I went to Europe that I became (and still am) a total Europhile. I am infatuated with Germany and Italy. Call it obsession. Call it whatever you want. Call it love.

The first time was as a gawky, thirteen-year old who trailed despondently behind her pretty sisters through five countries. The second time I toured Europe with a Eurail Pass in hand with my friend Jo and her parents - her parents (who were really cool and in total contrast to my dad) pretty much let us do whatever we wanted without the million WhoWhatWhyWhen and How inquisition that I was always subjected to.

We traveled through Europe and had some fun times.

In Germany, I translated the specs for studio lights in four languages.



In Switzerland, we got kicked out of the train at the border.


In Italy I started my love affair with Florence.


In Spain, we went with the station manager at 1 am to see Madrid by night.



In Portugal, we tended the bar when the bartender passed out (gee, I wonder why?).

Pshaw! say the backpackers of today. Lame-o! Whatever. It was the 70s.

Sunday, July 31, 2011

Album 2: India Diary






We took the kids to India (almost) every winter. Apart from the photos which serve as good memories, there were their diaries, which were fun to read and gave us a good perspective of our desh from their ABCD point of view.

Here are excerpts from my son’s album from a trip he made when he was nine.

It was fun staying with family. The kids got a lot of attention. A lot of love. And a lot of gifts. Well, my daughter did. She got gold necklaces and diamond earrings. My son got ganjis. Not just any ganjis. Rupa ganjis.

It was fun eating out. “We ate lunch at The China Garden. The food was excellent! Better than any Chinese restaurant in the States!”

Well, I guess not all the time. “We went out to dinner with my cousins to the New Yorker. The pizza was De gou tant - which means disgusting in French. It had one speck of sauce and 20 pounds of cheese.”

It was fun eating at home. Well, again, not all the time. “Today’s Christmas! Also my cousin’s birthday! Today we celebrated my cousin’s birthday by having the biggest turkey ever. It was made so beautifully, it looked as if a gourmet cook prepared it. There was just one problem - I hate turkey. Call me crazy if you will, but I think it just doesn’t have any taste. So I ate Indian food. After dinner, we all had cake and chocolates. I wish my birthday was on the 25th too.”



It wasn’t always fun. “A bad thing is the pollution - it is awful. It’s the pollution that makes me wheeze. They call me Wheezer William. There is dust, bugs, trash and dirt flying everywhere you go. My mom, sister and my aunt go shopping. I watch TV, play basketball and golf and then start wheezing.”



That year, we also did the Golden Triangle. We went to the Amber Fort on an elephant.








Who would’ve thought that my daughter would be making the same trip almost exactly fourteen years later and come back with a ring on her finger?








We went to Jaipur. At the museum, we saw the Bhagvad Gita “handwritten in about number 5 font size”. On the way to Fathhepur Sikri, we got a flat tire. While the driver was fixing it, the kids looked around for entertainment on the side of the road.  “It was kind of fun, because there was a pond and we threw rocks in it. There was an old lady, who yelled at us for throwing the rocks. We gave her thirty cents to shut up. My mom called her my mother-in-law.”

The old lady was not the only one who yelled at him on the trip. On our return to Bombay, we attended my nephew’s wedding. “We were hungry, so my mom ordered french fries. She got mad because I put the ketchup bottle in my turban.” I realize Indian weddings are boring, but sitting patiently with the guests is the least he could have done. “Pahiniben and I were sitting behind them. She said that what happens if I pinched a guy’s butt? She tried it and he screamed! It was funny.”

Nope, it wasn't funny. 

Friday, July 29, 2011

Album 1: Bhutan



It should be fitting that I start the Album Blog with one of my top five countries in the world.

Bhutan is a country after my own heart - I could easily retire in one of the monasteries and spend my days in pensive circumlocution, wearing a kira and spinning a prayer-wheel.


I went at the invitation of my friend Patrizia, who is married to one of the Ministers. I flew to Calcutta to catch the Druk Air flight. Waiting in line at the airport, I was approached by the airport manager and then escorted to First Class. Hmmm... can life get any better? I thought. It did. Patrizia came to greet me on the tarmac in ceremonial garb and it just got better and better. I spent a wonderful five days with her family. I toured Thimphu and visited the Dzong at Punakha. A dzong is a fortress, built with hundreds of wooden planks joined together without a single nail and no formal architectural plan. I climbed to the top of one of the 108 Chortens (stupas) the Queen Mother had built for her son. We had tea and went dancing with royalty.




Drawing done by Patrizia's son Ugyen.
I stayed at the Yeedzin Guest House where Suresh and Purna looked after me as I were a Queen myself.




I got a personal tour of the Thimpu Dzong by the Honorable Lyonpo Ugyen Tshering.
Less than a million people live in this country where the focus is on the GNH - Gross National Happiness. The people are gentle and considerate. Traffic courtsey is in complete contrast to the chaotic each-man-for-himself mayhem on Bombay streets. Overtaking another car, one gives a short beep in acknowledgement and driver Pema would even give one each time he passed a cow.

As I left Bhutan, I was given a note by the hotel staff, which ended with:
“Lastly, I would like to say, plez madan (sic), save your journey with peace and happiness.”

No one could have expressed it better.

Thursday, July 28, 2011

A Baadha-A-Month






I was beginning to pinch more than an inch. The muffin tops had swelled to inner-tube proportions and with every step undulated in slo-mo waves. It was time to do something. Something drastic. Something excrutiating.

It was time to cut out the chocolate. (Insert blood-curdling scream).

Well, if I was going to cut out chocolate, why not all sweets. I mean, if you are going to cut off a finger, why not the whole arm. Ok, so this explains why I failed Logic in my sophomore year. And all this time, I blamed Professor ‘Black Crow’. My Elphinstone College alumni will surely remember him:
Crows are black.
Swaminathan is black.
Therefore Swaminathan is a crow.

I know, I know, college humor has come a long way since then.

The One Month of no delightful, saccharine confection  was more painful for the husband, who has an umbilical cord connection to the sugar bowl. Thirty days passed slowly (and sugarlessly), the inner tubes went back to looking like muffin tops and life went on.

And then I started thinking of doing another “One Month” deal, except why torture myself this time? After all, I deserved a reward for knocking off one whole pound. Hmm... how about one month of A Movie A Day. The son had just signed up for a Netflix account, and in true desi style, I thought I should vasoolofy the one month free trial membership.

So followed one month of streaming movies and watching them on my iPad. Most were good, only because I chucked out the bad ones within ten minutes. Hey! have improved. I used to be a lot more uncharitable and intolerant, and barely give them a chance five minutes past the titles ...

So, here is a list of the movies I saw. Caveat: No money-back guarantees. Also, I am into the weirder-the-better, independent kinda foreign movies. No fantasy, no Big Production, no sci-fi. Mention Julia Roberts or Tom Hanks, Aniston, Depp or Stiller and you're outta here before the titles even start.

1. No One Killed Jessica
2. Guzaarish
3. Life in a ... Metro
4. The Sicialian Girl
5. Sabah
6. 7 Khoon Maaf
7. The Red Balloon
8. The God Who Wasn’t There
9. Prête-Moi Ta Main
10. Freakanomics
11. Mumbai Meri Jaan
12. Les Poupées Russes
13. Road, Movie
14. Alles Auf Zucker
15. A Wednesday
16. Oye, Lucky, Lucky, Oye
17. Dear God
18. Inform and Delight
19. Maria Larsson’s Everlasting Moments
20. A Song for Martin
21. Passionada
22. Prague Duet
23. Hawaii, Oslo
24. Angela
25. Fat, Sick and Nearly Dead
26. Autumn Spring
27. Vanished Empire
28. Inch’Allah Dimanche
29. Tuya’s Marriage
30. Turtles Can Fly

Since the movies did not take up more than two hours of my time, and I have OCD when it comes to cleaning and organizing, I started sorting all my albums and photographs the rest of the day. I discovered I have 40+ albums, so next month, I will do an Album-A-Day and blog the contents daily, with trips down memory lane and foreign countries. Friends and Family will be featured on a regular basis. Unflattering portraits will (try to) be censored.

And now, excuse me, I hear some Lindt calling my name.

Saturday, March 19, 2011

Handy(wo)man



Going out for brunch on Mother’s Day is a frightening proposition. The hype, the clamor in the packed restaurants, the (sometimes false) gaiety, which goes with the mandatory gift of flowers/chocolates, and if the kids can’t make it over the state/continent to see the woman who gave birth to them, there is always the cheaper and conveniently alternate option of the Hallmark card. Although these days our offspring don’t even have to take the fifteen minutes out of their busy lives to do that - fifteen seconds worth of sending an ecard works just as well to make Mom cry.

When my kids were small, Mother’s Day was the Best Day of the Year. There was peace. There was quiet. There were no kids. My present to me was my husband taking both of them out for the whole day and leaving me alone. I know I sound worse than Tiger Mom Chua, but don’t knock it till you’ve tried it. A brunch is two hours worth of food that gives you indigestion and a doggie bag of leftovers. A day without the kids is heaven.

A few years later, when the whining and crying and exuberant ‘let’s run around the house and drive mom crazy’ days were over, I still eschewed the $6.99 Champagne Brunch scene in favor of hanging out in the house in my pajamas the whole day.

And my husband gave me ‘real’ presents (as he called them).

One year I got a Cordless Drill (Dewalt 3/8 inch 12 volt). When I told my friends, they were appalled and asked me exactly where I planned to stick it. No! No! I exclaimed. It was the best present ever. Better than a sparkling stone? they asked. Wayyyy better, I said as they walked away, planning to defriend me as quickly as possible.

I charged the drill and then walked around the house with a swagger, ready to tighten, twist and turn every loose screw in the house. I heard that my (de)friends did suggest I adjust the few loose ones in my head, but couldn’t see their comments on facebook.

If this were an Indian movie, this would be the time for the black-and-white flashback ... to 1982 - and the move as a newlywed into a beautiful house in Mission Viejo. A beautiful house whose toilet wouldn’t flush. (No, for the one-track minded - I did not stick unmentionables down the potty). On checking with the neighbor, she suggested it was an easy fix by buying a flush valve at the local hardware store. (Now let me tell you Donna knew her toilet well - she saw her plumber once a month). So off we went to National Lumber and that’s when my (second) love story began. I was in Shangri-La, in Utopia, at Disneyland. I was in heaven. I inhaled the aroma of the wood. I fingered the wrenches and the ratchets with awe. I roamed the aisles bright-eyed and bushy-tailed. I checked out the nuts (screw and crown). The washers (flat, fender, rivet and my favorite - the tooth washer). The bolts (lag, u-bolt, carriage and eye). The screws (deck, drywall, wood and machine). And the nailssss!!!! I had never seen so many different types of nails before.

We bought the part and I waited for my husband to fix the toilet. And waited and waited. One month of running to the downstairs bathroom almost ended my (first) love story. Too embarrassed to admit to his newlywed bride that all he knew was how to open the packet, he kept making excuses. In frustration, I rolled up my sleeves, took the packet from his hands (the one he had cut open carefully with the scissors - he took his one job very seriously) and fixed the toilet. Eureka! I shouted and as my new career blossomed, my husband retired from what he had never done in the first place ... and went back to more important things ... like pondering the truth between the two debatable schools of thought advocating “free will” or “pre-determined destiny” (fatalism).

In all fairness, I did give him other chances. We once heard a crashing sound and thought it was an earthquake, only to find that the shelves he had fixed in the closet had come crashing down. How was I supposed to know that you cannot put more than three paper towel rolls on a shelf? Next, he affixed a curtain rod in the kitchen. Or tried to. There were so many holes in the wall, it looked like target practice at a shooting range for the blind. He kept losing the fillers inside the wall. I was sent to get a fresh pack of fifty fillers. Then I had to go back again to get bigger ones and bigger screws. When he finally finished and draped the curtains, we stepped back to admire his handy-work. I noticed one curtain was six inches shorter than the other. His solution? Let’s open up the hem to match both the sides.

I think that was the point when I took (or was it snatched?) the toolbox from his hands. But I blamed myself for all the disasters. Something should have tipped me off when he once read an instruction manual and asked me: Which one is the Philips Screwdriver? And also when he was amazed to find that the purpose of a stud finder was to find the stud and knock the nail into it and not avoid the stud. It was unfortunate that the neighbor saw him doing this, spread the word throughout the street and was subsequently referred to as Mr. Stud.

Trips to National Lumber (now turned into Home Depot) were done on my own from then on. Apparently reading about the Arab-Israeli conflict, analyzing the Single European Entity, checking Tendulkar’s cricket scores, discussing regional policies in shaping Third World countries and other (boring) stuff was preferable to accompanying a wife to the hardware store; a wife, who shrieked with joy when she got load of a miter saw. I didn’t care. I learned about ceiling joists and crown moulding, gables and girders. How to apply faux finishes and lay tiles.

And then came HGTV. A tad too little and too late, me thought. By this time I had already painted a good portion of the house and every wall was covered with artwork and artifacts brought from my travels. Mexican tribal masks vied with Mughal Paintings, a collage of a Chinese mirror and shadow puppets from Thailand, Mola art from Panama with Hawaiian shells. All bought, installed, anchored, riveted, sawed, planed, framed and furnished ... by yours truly.

When I first started to paint the walls, my family was all for it. Part of the reason was because I did not ask for their help, opinion or advice. My son did, however, help paint the dining room and the sixteen foot staircase wall. He was smart enough to weigh the odds of Mother falling and breaking her leg/back/arm equalling to no food and dirty clothes for months, as opposed to straddling a ladder for an hour or so. But then I got carried away. Walking around with the paintbrush in my hand, I scoured the house for fresh wall/pillar victims. There came a point, sadly, when they decided to put a stop to it. “Put the paintbrush down!” I was threatened. “Step away from the paintbrush!”


So I am done. Cleaned the drill bits, reorganized the pliers, boxed the stapler and the nailer and the glue gun, labeled the paint cans, and retired the toolbox.


Now I just rest and indulge in armchair fantasies. While my girlfriend dreams of being marooned in Tahiti with George Clooney and another (guy)friend wants to be locked up in a kitchen with Rachel Ray, I have my own dilemma: Should I choose Bob Vila or Mike Holmes when I am exiled to Habitat for Humanity?













Thursday, March 10, 2011

Jab Pyar Kisise Se Hota Hai



When I was small, I remember my sister taking perverse pleasure in teasing me with “Bharat loves Bharti” and “Bharti loves Bharat”. It wouldn’t have been that annoying had I known that I would marry someone named Bharat, and make that statement come true, which would have been the ultimate revenge.

But the Bharat she was referring to was Bharat Bhushan. Ewww. Double ewww and ulti.

Every time she pushed my buttons, I would stomp my foot, throw a tantrum and cry. She would grab all the good-looking guys for herself - Shashi Kapoor, Cliff Richard, Paul McCartney ... and I was left scraping the bottom of the barrel: Pradeep Kumar, Joy Mukherjee and Biswajeet. Triple eww.

Except with Shammi Kapoor - a love affair which continues today. Crazy as a coot, and not as serious as his brother Raj or as handsome as the other brother Shashi, but oh so lovable with his manic energy and trademark wacky swagger. Salman Khan tried to do a pathetic imitation in the new Bollywood “Jab Pyar Kisise Se Hota Hai” and failed miserably. And ripping his shirt open wouldn’t have helped him either. What made Shammi Kapoor even more endearable was his impersonation of Elvis in "Dil Dekhe Dekho", singing Meri Neeta, a copy of Paul Anka’s Diana and the outright plagiarism of the Beatles’ I Want to Hold Your Hand (Dekho Abt To in “Janwar”).

My uncle was in the film business and he and my dad were on first name terms with the Who’s Who in the film world. We heard names like Mehboob Khan (his wife came every year to tie Rakhi on Dad) and the Chopra brothers (B.R and Yash) and Gulshan Rai, without knowing who they really were, and famous actors, who we occasionally ran into when we went to Film Centre, to see the color trial runs of the movies. My uncle had established the first color processing laboratory in Southeast Asia and till today, it is a thrill to see ‘Processed at Film Centre’ in the title credits of the old movies. We were never allowed to attend the glamorous parties given at White House, given our youth and the fact that Bollywood (although the term was coined in the 1970s) was portrayed as the Big Bad World out there.

Motakaka and Dad did let us, however, peek in at times, and sit in the foyer, as the celebrities traipsed in and out. One evening, I hit gold, as Shammi Kapoor passed by. Seeing me reading comics in the dim light, he patted me on the head and said, “Bacché! You will spoil your eyes!” I was pretty upset when Vishnu insisted I wash my hair the next day for school.

Raj Kapoor’s and the singer Mukesh’s daughters went to our school -Walsingham. I remember the driver and the ayah sitting with Dabbu and Chintu in the car, waiting for school to let out. How they drove all the way from Chembur to Nepean Sea Road every day boggles the mind. Were they to try that run today, it would take them a good two hours one way.

Snobbery ran deep in us. Dev Anand once rang the doorbell at our house and Varsha opened the door. Pretending she did not recognize him, she left him standing outside and yelled to Dad that ‘someone’ was here to see him. His ego now deflated like a punctured balloon, Dad said the actor did not talk to him for years.

When starstruck, out-of-town guests pressed Dad to arrange outings to film shootings, Dad forced us to accompany them and we went grudgingly. I remember having nightmares for days when we took in the shooting of Sadhana (actually a puppet stand-in) plunging to her death from a chandelier in “Woh Kaun Thi.”

There is only that much you could take of a Hindi melodrama. In my days, almost every movie had the same hackneyed, cloying plot: a romance between a rich boy and poor girl, or vice versa. Enter villain. Enter long-lost twin/father/mother ... with the staple “Ek andheri raat thi” flashback. Introduce twist in already complicated plot. Introduce innumerable songs sung in a variety of costumes in totally deserted gardens (where do you find a deserted garden in India?) and infinite number of coincidences, a long fight sequence (guess who always won?), a court scene (peppered with “Objection, Your Honor!”), the police chase (with Iftekar as the staple Inspector, rapping his baton on an open palm), and ending with a tearful, mawkish reunion. There were no sad endings, unless the producers wanted a flop on their hands. Intermissions gave you the opportunity to take a restroom break and a bag of salty, stale popcorn. Two and a half hours later, the lights would go on. Two and a half hours you would never get back of your life.

There was no kissing (nothing past first base if even that), but we knew exactly what went on when the couple ducked behind a bush/tree, and two butterflies/birds flew out. Things got really progressive and ooooh! so scandalous when the movie “Aradhana” showed a steamy love scene. It went through the whole sequence of the storm, the wet clothes, the crackling fire, the revealing towel, the open shirt (and hairy chest), and relentless necking which led to ... spoiler alert! ... a surprise nine months later. Rajesh Khanna seemed to have the gratifying (for himself and pubescent boys in the audience) habit of singing in the rain with his heroines in wet, clingy clothes - (Do Raaste, Shehzada, Apna Desh, Ajnabee, Roti, Prem Kahani), that I am surprised he didn’t catch pneumonia.

The most popular villain those days was portrayed by a thespian called Pran. Here’s a guy you never want to meet in a dark alley: the pencil-thin mustache, which he twirled incessantly with the trademark evil sneer and the beady eyes – one smaller than the other.



It was an odd coincidence that every time Pran made an on-screen appearance, my cousin had to take a bathroom break, especially during his attempts to rape the heroine. If he succeeded, the subtle inference was from the tears, the rent sari and the smudged bindi. It came as a shock to hear that Pran’s real-life persona was in total contrast to his screen image. Nevertheless, seeing him on the screen and in my nightmares was enough reason not to want to meet him in a dark alley or anywhere else.


By the way ... I got over being teased about Bharat Bhushan. But the “Bharti loves Bharat” still holds true.

Thursday, March 3, 2011

My Very Own Ararat



My friend Seta recently came back from a vacation to Armenia. She considers herself Armenian first, and everything else sits on the back burner: Christian, Lebanese, American. Although she had been brought up in the Armenian tradition - the language, the customs, the culture, she had never before laid her pedicured foot on the soil of the Fatherland. Of course, she snorted, the macho men would never deign to call it the ‘Motherland’.

I could feel her excitement as she described the flight to Yerevan. As the plane dipped its wings, the pilot urged the passengers to look out of the window and Mt. Ararat came into view. The Mt. Ararat where Noah was supposed to have landed his ark. The Mt. Ararat which is a sacred symbol for the nation of Armenia and its people.

She sat transfixed in her belted seat, she recalled, with tears streaming down her face. I could feel her sense of wonder, the nostalgia, the feeling of ‘coming home’. I felt moved to tears myself. And then I felt jealousy.

I wanted my very own Ararat.

Aww, you have the Taj Mahal, she said when I confessed, trying to placate the green monster. But did I feel the same emotion, the same sense of proprietary oneness when I saw the Taj Mahal? Well, yes, my eyes did open in wonder, my heart skipped a beat, but then I got goosebumps the same way when I stood in front of the Leaning Tower of Pisa ... or the Grand Canyon ... or even while walking on the Great Wall of China.

Did I have no sense of national pride for the eternal and beautiful symbol of India? What about when I see the American flag flying in all its glory? It seemed I harbored no single loyalty. No profound connections linked me with a deep sense of belonging to any one place.

Don’t get me wrong. I love being American ... and Indian ... and love everything German and Italian. I love waving my American passport with pride and kiss the soil with relief when I come back home from any foreign travel. While I hate wearing a sari, I love the salwar khameez and the bindis and enjoy celebrating Diwali and all the other hundred Indian festivals. My need for logic and order and punctuality could give me honorary German citizenship. I crave a pied-à-terre in the Tuscan countryside when I retire, and could die in ecstasy listening to an Italian aria ... preferably with some prosciutto in my hand. I watched Toshiba Sunday theater religiously for years and my husband would roll his eyes and walk out of the room. The Japanese version of “Kyunki Saas Bhi Kabhi Bahu Thi” is much better, trust me.

But I want more. I want a cry-when-I-see-Ararat emotion, a passion that binds me one hundred percent to one culture. Right now I feel like a hybrid mutt, an amalgamation of whatever cultural meme I absorbed growing up.

I lived in a parallel universe - figuratively speaking of course. Raised in India, but speaking English at school and at home, wearing headbands and pedal pushers , singing along with the Beatles, twisting to Chubby Checker, eating fondue, playing roulette and making brownies. The body was a Bombayite, everything else was angrezified. I was an Indian who ate chocolate and cheese and not rasgoolla or ras-puri. I was a Hindu who didn’t know the story of the Ramayana. I was a Gujarati who never did garba, let alone own a dandia. I did eat dhokla - give me some credit.

Learning languages just stirred the pot and exacerbated the hybridization. After English, Gujarati and Hindi, I took French for eight years, then German in college, then Italian in Florence, then Japanese. Language immersion was the way to go, and I slept dreamed and lived the languages and imbibed the culture by staying in the countries.

Was I confused? Did I wonder about my cultural identity? Probably not - being busy dealing with the quotidian life in a milieu as close to paradise as a child could imagine.

There is, however, always the need to box, if not by yourself, by others. There is always the desire to label, to name, to stereotype. I was no fob, no Francophile, no paesano; not a gori, nor a gaijin. Where did I fit? Where is my box to check, my circle to color in? No category for raised in India, lives in America, loves German, homesick for Italy, modifies French verbs and wears a yukata in the summer.

It seems I am an everything bagel. Every sesame seed, poppy seed, peppercorn, garlic and onion flake representing a word, an experience, a custom and a culture baked into the flour of my very being. So I live my life as an amalgamation of different ingredients that I have picked up along the way - a veritable international smorgasbord if you will.

So, Seta, while I envy you your own Ararat, I think I will take my ark and travel the globe with it, letting it rest where it may.

Monday, January 17, 2011

I.M.Patel , U.R.Patel and V.R. (all) Patel

“How do you spell Patel?” asked the girl on the other end of the line.

How do you spell Patel? Seriously? Either this girl was five years old ... or had been living under a rock her whole life.

In any case, it’s not that hard to spell Patel. Paula, Anton, Theodore, Emil, Ludwig is how I would spell it out in Germany. But the girl was American, clueless, had a southern twang and had apparently never stayed at a motel.

I dutifully spelled it out and asked her how come she had not met/seen/heard of the name Patel - Patel as in over two million of us spread across the globe, not counting zillion others in the home country. The 2000 census ranked Patel at 172nd amongst the nation’s 1000 most frequent occurring surnames - and get this: we outnumbered Singh! We can’t beat them in bhangra, but by god! we can procreate faster than they can whip up sarso ka saag. I guess we are busier making dhokla in India as they outnumber us there.

More than 300,000 in the US and over 700,000 Patels live in Britain. Some of them turned up at a reception in Buckingham Palace, enough to warrant Prince Philip to tell an Asian businessman Atul Patel that “a lot of your family is in tonight.” So the Prince doesn’t know we aren’t alllll related. Thank heavens. Can you see us at the Thanksgiving table? Oh, I mean at the Diwali pooja. Admittedly though, the Prince’s best impolitic gaffe was asking a student trekking in Papua New Guinea: “You managed not to get eaten then?” Methinks he should keep his royal mouth shut and take refuge under one of his wife’s flamboyantly ugly hats.

Some time ago, I was stopped at immigration. The officer looked at my name, at the passport, and then back at me. Was my husband an engineer, a doctor or did he own a motel? he wanted to know.

Talk about surname stereotyping. Talk about being bang on the money.

Becoming an engineer or a doctor was the order of the olden days. If, however, money or brains were insufficient, ‘Go West Young Man...and buy a motel!’ was another fail-safe parental command. And so he/they did. $40,000 not only got you a downpayment on a decent motel in the distressed and oil-crisis times of the 70s, but also US residency. These days the Patel-Motel Cartel is super strong and almost 60% of motel owners are Indians and one third of those are Patels. When my husband drove cross country forty years ago, every motel he stopped at had a Patel behind the reception desk. Now that same Patel sits behind the steering wheel of a Mercedes and hires goras to greet people with Hello! and Welcome to Days Inn, EconoLodge, Quality Inn etc.

When it was discovered that my husband had the saubhagya to be a Patel, the moteliers not only refused payment, but invited him to sit at the family table for a nice comforting thali of khitchdee and curdi as well. Whether he got undhyu or not, he does not remember.

Patels love other Patels. Introductions having established that there are two Patidars in a meeting, an instant rapport is created and offers of friendship/help/food and lodging flow forth. They have their own Patidar samaj, hold their own exclusive garbas, pray at their own mandirs, feast at their own picnics, and have their own little circles (gor), village classification or ‘gams’.

Aah, the famous Patel Gams. The Charotar Patels have a system of cha-gam (6 villages) and panch-gam (5 villages) and sattavis-gam (27 villages). The six villages are Sojitra, Karamsad, Dharmaj, Bhadran, Vaso and Nadiad. The five villages are Peej, Ode, Sunav, Uttarsanda and Nar. Never mind about the 27 villages. Why? Because it’s good to belong to the five villages, but best to belong to the six villages, or marry into one of them, as I did. Not that I give a rat’s ass about belonging to Sojitra, the elitest of villages. I mean, c’mon, I think they just got electricity and running water in the 80s...the 1980s. They have a whole caste system built into this segregation, complete with snobbery and exclusive bragging rights.

The ‘Patels Rule the World’ group on Facebook has 16,756 members. The name is a bit presumptous, but then megalomania is one of our strong points. And newsflash for singles with a ‘view to matrimony’ - they also have their own little personal match.com.

Which brings me to marriage. Patels love to marry other Patels. I was born a Patel, my mother was née Patel, my mother-in-law was née Patel and so on. I remember filling out and handing in my passport application, when the clerk tossed it back contemptously and asked if I spoke English. Instead of telling him I spoke it a whole heap better than him, I elaborated with the same patience I use with my special ed kids... that I know the meaning of a maiden name and yes, I, my mother, my mother-in-law and all the pedhis before them were all Patels.

With so many of us, it is easy to find someone to marry that you are not related to. How easy? The interconnections of the Patel intelligentia is a powerful machine, rivaling the CIA in efficiency and networking. A few phone calls and all the kakis and fois and masis and mamis set off on a mission to find you a perfect (Patel) soulmate.

In my days, there was the monthly Patel directory, which listed all eligible boys and girls with their complete bio-data (and which gam you belong to), but which is now sufficiently outdated and replaced by websites dedicated to find you the (Patel) love of your life. I remember an aunt asking me for details so she could register my name (talk about ‘bride registry’!), but retreated hastily when I asked whether they had a directory of girls who commit ‘aunticide’. The thought of letting us date and find our own loves of our own lives never occur to them or maybe it does. Where’s the fun in that? It would take their joy out of interfering and meddling in other people’s lives.

But let’s start at the very beginning...a very good place to start.

The Patidars go back a long, long time ago. They are the descendants of Aryans and originally from Punjab. From there they moved to Marvad and further onto Gujarat. On their southbound trek, somewhere along the way they left behind their bahaduri and bhangra genes and traded them in for vyapari and garba ones.

A popular legend is that they are descended from the two sons of Ram - Luv and Kush. The sons of Luv became Levas and the ones from Kush became Kadva. Romantic as that sounds, the Levas probably came from the village of Leava and the Kadvas from the village Karad.

The earliest mention of Patels is in the 16th century book “Couto” where there is a description of the commencement of the Portuguese rule in Bassein. The word itself means farmer, landowner or village headman. To facilitate tax collections, the British delineated and renamed some Patels into Amins (farm managers) and others Desais (those who kept books). The probable etymology seems to be from ‘pat’ - roll or register, and Patlikh or record keeper. Patlikh was shortened to Patal and then became Patel.

And there you have it.

Now if we get enough members for a new group on Facebook, we could call it “Patels Will Rule the White House”. It can happen.

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

The Singing Teacher

My father couldn’t have cared less about the United States Army, but he firmly believed in their slogan ‘Be all you can be’.

We were encouraged to take any and all kinds of classes. Whilst art and accounting classes were fine and dandy, he was told that singing ups the chances of finding ‘a suitable boy’ for his girls. Now this probably holds true if you were born in a South Indian family, but methinks he should have focused on me learning how to make dhokla (or even) rotli instead. Would have stood me in good stead.

Not being endowed with the same good looks as Nina or Varsha, he thought that a melodious voice would be a sufficiently substitutive asset and look good on my bio-data. He overestimated my vocal cords, which, stentorian when used against the servants or the driver Jadav, were godawful when used for anything remotely connected to a tune or melody.

One of my favorite quotes is by Coleridge:

‘Swans sing before they die - t’were no bad thing,
Should certain persons die before they sing.’

My point exactly.

My father, however, the eternal optimist and conveniently in absentia when the singing teacher came, hired a professional to attempt the impossible with me and the possible with Nina. Varsha, for some reason, was allowed to opt out and had tabla lessons instead.

Within six months Nina had mastered the saptak, the Indian musical equivalent of DoReMi and was already practicing ‘Bol re Papi Hara’, the song from the movie “Guddi” and based on the classical raga Miya ki Malhar. It was self-evident that she was the apple of the teacher’s eye. When it was my turn, the same eye filled with tears, as the lines from the song ‘meri aankh se moti paaye’ suggested.

She was not alone in her misery. At least she was being paid. I had to listen to myself, week after week, sorrowful and suffering in the atonal sessions , continuously practicing the sargam,. That is, only part of the scale. Month after month, I warbled Sa, Re, Ga and Ma. Opening my mouth in preparation to sing the note Pa, beads of sweat would break out on her forehead, and she would shudder in an anticipatory dread.

Why don’t we just focus on Sa, Re, Ga and Ma for today, she would suggest. I never reached Pa.

Foiled by the note Pa, or Fa in the equivalent Western solfège. For Julie Andrews it meant a longer way to run, for me it meant an eternity to learn how to sing. I was not ready to continue for an eternity. Things came to a head when the woman had the audacity to ask for more money after six months. At this point my father conceded that it would be easier for Helen Keller to drive, than for me to belt out a melodious note and he tossed her out. I consoled my father, telling him that I would take my chances finding a boy, who would love me for myself and not for my voice.

I eventually did find a boy who loves me for myself. If truth be told, he loves me more when I don’t sing.