Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Wedding Vignettes: Chaos-city



Pretty much any big city you go to in India is chaotic. There are always the crowds, the tired, the poor, the huddled masses yearning for oxygen to breathe, for roads to drive on, pavements to walk amongst the wretched refuse on the streets ... (now there’s a twist to the New Colossus).

So we left one crowded city (Bombay) for one less so (Ahmedabad). A lot less people, but a lot more dust. A lot less traffic, but it still takes you a long time to get from one end to the other. While we did most of the clothes-shopping in town, we had to go to the ‘city’ to buy the pooja stuff. All fingers pointed towards Manek Chowk.

Manek Chowk. Think Mall. Rows and rows of shops. Wares for sale. Hordes. Noise. Dust. Autos. Cycles. Scooters. Honking. Heat. And the occasional cow. Ok. Don’t think mall. Think chaotic orient-style bazaar. I go into a western mall like I am entering the Temple of Doom. Here I have no depression whatsoever and am eager to dive into this house of babel for which a blindfolded architect must have drawn designs.

Only a fool would take a car past the gate, so our driver Bachubhai parks nearby and hails an auto for us. A few minute’s worth of hair-raising, Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride later, we pass through the ancient, stone gateway and he deposits us smack-dab in the center of the action. Your senses are assailed from every angle. A riotous rainbow of colors blending turmeric and mirchi with bandhinis and patolas, the clamor of people calling out their wares, and smells of incense and spices emanate from the stalls, which are practically on top of each other. While you are busy looking down to make sure you don’t step in cow-doo, you are danger of being run over by two- and three-wheeled maniacs who think you are are wearing your invisible cloak. I stop to roll up the hem of my jeans while my daughter rolls her eyes. I will roll them down when I am on Project Runway, I promise her. She rolls her eyes so much, one day they will reside permanently in the occipital section of her brain.

You can find everything here - from cosmetics to underwear, socks to suitcases, jewelry - both real and fake, fruit, vegetables and all kinds of lentils and spices. But we are here to buy pooja stuff or samaagri as it is called. True to my anal nature, I had brought a printed list of items we needed to buy. In English. About as useful as my Google Map of the city. The man had already started rattling off stuff we would need. Varmala. Sampoot. Kalash. Chaab. Dhoop. Antarpat. Naadachadi. Never having done a pooja (or one lasting more than a minute) I had no clue what he was talking about. To avoid looking dumb, and obviously failing miserably, we just asked him to give us one of everything. Sheeesh! What is all this stuff and who invented all the rituals for it anyway? What the hell does tal have to do with the gods? And why is it seven paan, but eleven supari? Fear of invoking evil spirits made us pick up the tab (and the super-heavy bag) without a whimper.

It was a family-run enterprise. The genteel, old patriarch advised, explained and convinced us what was necessary and in an honest fashion telling us what not to buy. The son ran around getting the stuff down from the shelves, while a small chokra-boy continuously packed the items.

We left after Old Man Saraiya gave my lawyer-daughter a blessing and asked her to come and visit him in a few years ... as a judge. We left with a huge canvas theli of stuff ... and a lump in our throats.


Saraiya Stores, Manek Chowk, Fuwara, Ahmedabad 380001. Tel: 79 2214 6531

Saturday, February 11, 2012

Wedding Vignettes: Shopophobia



There is a reason why the word Shopophobia does not exist in the OED. If there were people who had a fear of shopping, there would be a word. A bit ridiculous to invent a word for one person. Moi.

Seriously, I would rather have a colonoscopy while a dentist was giving me a root canal. Without anesthesia. Yes. I dread shopping that much. That’s not entirely true. I pretty much hate it as well. So when I was expected to go wedding shopping, you will understand the palpitations and the cold sweat. And that too, to go to India for it. Shoot me now. Spoiler alert! I survived, as can be attested by the date of this article.

Apart from the blue funk, I was the not your 'go-to' person to accompany anyone shopping, least of all my daughter for something so important (unless it was as a coolie to carry their bags). I had not the faintest clue where to begin. Couldn’t tell the difference between a chiffon and a georgette, a lengha from a ghagra, a banarasi from a kanjeevaram, a kundan from a polki. Enamel was what was found on your teeth and not on a minakari necklace.

So there we were, stress-begotten OCIs in hand, ready to take on this gargantuan task.
Alone. For two and a half weeks we maneuvered our way through a maze of recommended designers and shops, in a complex system of ordering invitations, choosing saris, picking up gifts, finding mithai boxes, selecting jewelry, giving measurements to tailors, delivering samples and going to pick stuff up, running from pillar to post and back again - because nothing was ready on time.

The invitations were first. We finished that on Khadilkar Marg in Bombay. A street lined with shops devoted to cards and anything remotely related to it. It took us the whole morning and afternoon, and we left after giving half the deposit and receiving assurances that they would stay on top of the order and stay in touch regularly. Yes, and I also believed the taxi driver when he said he knew where to go and the tailor when he said he had the right measurements.

Even before we left, we had heard horror stories about misspellings and delays, irregular edges and smelly cards ... wrong sizes, wrong fonts, wrong paper. As tempted as we were to go to a gora shop in South Coast Plaza, we realized, apart from the cost, our invitations involved (way) too much fandagiri. We had (way) too many different inserts and (way) too many permutations as regards the invitations, the envelopes, the RSVPs cards etc. Sangeet. Mehndi. Garba. Wedding. Two receptions. And this was supposed to be a low-key wedding. Hah! (The breakfasts, the lunches, the picnic, the pithi, and the high teas were considered non-invitation items.)

There is a happy ending to the Invitation Card story. We have them. They look beautiful.  They did smell, but leaving them in my son’s room, spreadeagled on his bed, with the windows open for a week solved that problem. (What was that scream I just heard?) It was painful calling the card guys every night, with them not answering the phone, not replying our emails (who in their right mind uses the excuse “I didn’t get the email” these days? They seriously don’t know how the internet works?) Give them five corrections to do, they would randomly choose three of them.

I don’t know much more about how traumatic everything else was, because the Invitation Task had been delegated to my husband and my daughter. Which was the only reason why I survived. Or rather, the card guys did.




Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Wedding Vignettes: Excusez-moi?



Not yet ready. Not today. Kalé ao. Worker has gone for tea. Worker has gone to his gaon. Come in afternoon. Come in evening. My man not yet come. Wait khali five minutes. Wait half an hour. Wait one hour. Bandh tomorrow. Autos on strike. Yes, we are open, but no one there. Credit card machine broken. ATM does not work - no electricity. Sorry, no change. No hot drinks, only cold drinks. No cold drinks, only hot drinks. (I swear all this happened to us).

Not here, there. Not there, in the city. Not in city, in Satellite. Not in Satellite, in Law Garden. Not Law Garden, try Navrangpura. Not Navrangpura, NARANGPURA. Not Narangpura, try Shivranjani Char Rasta. Shyamal Char Rasta. Swastik Char Rasta. Bodakdev Char Rasta.

Everything is Char Rasta. Char Rasta ni agal. Ni pachal. Ni dabi baju. Ni jamni baju. Everything is behind, in front of, across from, next to or on top of. We ran from char rasta to char rasta. From place to place. From shop to shop. When I took out my proudly-printed-from-Google map, they laughed and advised me to put it away and take heed of the in-front-of, behind-and-next to directions, they would serve me better.

It didn’t help that Bachubhai, our aging family driver of thirty years, could not remember how to get to the same shop we had visited every day for the past three days. My fingernails grew by the time he reversed. We could get in and out of the car whiIe he was still pulling into a parking spot. I can walk faster on one leg, said my daughter. Once when we were short of time, I suggested that we make a quick dash to the tailor. She laughed. It’s a whole kilometer away, Mom. Let’s do it when we have a couple of hours to spare. Amazing how the sarcasm gene, so light and subtle in the mother’s body, once inherited by the progeny, can generate barbs sharper than a two-edged sword.

Saturday, December 10, 2011

Wedding Vignettes: The India Trip



Part and parcel of preparing for a wedding is going to India to wedding-shop. Not necessary if you have sons and you can just order a sherwani on-line (lucky swines). But mandatory if you have a bridezilla ... er, I mean daughter, who has to go there personally to ensure that every sequin is in the right place on her lengha. One blog - although I have enough material to write a book - will be devoted to buying the panetar.
So off we went to India. 

We stopped in Turkey first, where we ate enough eggplant to not touch bharta for the rest of our lives. Istanbul a beautiful city and we fell in love with the friendly people. The friendly men fell in love with my beautiful daughter and I was offered a hundred camels for her. Had they offered a hundred Lindt ... just kidding. (Although by the end of the trip, I would’ve sold her for a bowl of khitchdee).





Second stop Bombay, where the astronomical prices sent us screaming in terror, wallet clutched to our chests, to Ahmedabad. Unlike Istanbul this is not a beautiful city, but again we fell in love with the people. I may have been born and brought up in Bombay, but each time I come to this city, I have the feeling of coming home.
Every experience we had, every shop we went to, every person we met is etched indelibly in our minds and hearts. When we wear our sarees, when we slip on our bangles, when we use the rubber stamps, when the priest burns the camphor, and when we hang up the toran, we will remember them not only for their friendly service, but also for their smiles.

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Wedding Vignettes





My daughter is getting married.

While my husband wallows in depression, I roll up my sleeves and crank-start the brain. Venue. Guest list. Invitations. Hotels. Caterer. Pandit. Panetar. Jewelry. Gifts. Tastings. Florist. Photographer ... Now I need the Prozac. And give me a Xanax while you are at it, because I am starting to panic as well.

At least she found her own soulmate. She spared us the agony of ‘Kai chokro-bokro che ke?’ and blessed us with the ecstacy of the best damaad we couldn’t have even conjured up in our imagination.

So for the next six months I will blog the excitement (as well the trials and tribulations) of getting this production on the road. And a production it is and will be, if it is anything like your typical, over-the-top Indian wedding. The mehndi. The pithi. The pooja. The garba. The sangeet. The wedding. The reception.

Aaarghhh! How about “the elopement”?

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Album 4: I wish. I wonder. I hope.



I wish my dad were still alive.



I wonder if he knew how much I loved him.



I hope to be more like him.


Monday, August 1, 2011

Album 3: A Love Affair



It didn’t happen the first time. It was the second time I went to Europe that I became (and still am) a total Europhile. I am infatuated with Germany and Italy. Call it obsession. Call it whatever you want. Call it love.

The first time was as a gawky, thirteen-year old who trailed despondently behind her pretty sisters through five countries. The second time I toured Europe with a Eurail Pass in hand with my friend Jo and her parents - her parents (who were really cool and in total contrast to my dad) pretty much let us do whatever we wanted without the million WhoWhatWhyWhen and How inquisition that I was always subjected to.

We traveled through Europe and had some fun times.

In Germany, I translated the specs for studio lights in four languages.



In Switzerland, we got kicked out of the train at the border.


In Italy I started my love affair with Florence.


In Spain, we went with the station manager at 1 am to see Madrid by night.



In Portugal, we tended the bar when the bartender passed out (gee, I wonder why?).

Pshaw! say the backpackers of today. Lame-o! Whatever. It was the 70s.